Raise your glasses

Beer is back.
At least, that’s what I’m led to believe by a story on the front page of last Saturday’s St. Paul Pioneer Press business section. American brewers, it seems, have found ways, through marketing and the introduction of new products, to lure back the fickle drinkers who — perhaps enticed by a desire to feel more sophisticated, perhaps drawn by an unhealthy attraction to corks — had forsaken beer for wine.
Frankly, I have a problem with this premise. Not with the idea beer is back, but with the suggestion it ever went anywhere. Temporary sales fluctuations aside, beer has always had an important place in American culture. Nobody goes to tailgate parties with a bottle of Chardonnay, at least not without risking serious injury or at the very least a sound mocking.
For the vast majority of Americans beer has never really gone away. And if LL Cool J has taught us nothing else, it’s that you cannot call it a comeback when someone or something has been here for years.
So, that’s my problem with the article. But brewers do not get off the hook entirely. Though none of them are related to sales figures or market share, I have had growing concerns with the beer industry. My problem is with the same new products this article claims have drawn beer drinkers back into the fold, and the advertisements with which they seem to be selling increasing numbers of them.
According to the article, American brewers have started to pitch their products as cooler, classier and, I swear, healthier. Because nothing makes a person feel more vital (or more high-society) than waking up the morning (or early afternoon) after enjoying a few too many Buds.
Brewers, it seems, would like us to believe beer has all of the same health benefits attributed to red wine. Although presumably without the smugness associated with buying an expensive port. Unless you’re drinking Guinness.
Take Michelob Ultra, a lite beer introduced a few years ago when Atkins-obsessed Americans were caught up in a frenzy of counting carbs. Though the anti-carb movement has died down some since people discovered Dr. Atkins was horribly bloated when he died, Michelob Ultra then and now has been marketed as a beer for active people. “Are you a runner?” the ads seem to ask. “A swimmer?” Then this is the beer for you. Apparently the beer’s reduced calorie and carbohydrate counts make it the next best thing to Gatorade. Never mind the reason many people run or swim or bike is so they can spare the calories involved in drinking beer that’s darker than the water in your average aquarium.
More recently, Budweiser has introduced something called B-to-the-E, a beer-based drink that features, according to the article, “sweet flavors, caffeine, ginseng and guarana, a Brazilian stimulant.”
In other words, Budweiser has come up with an answer to energy drinks such as Red Bull despite the fact nobody ever even considered asking them the question.
I saw a can of B-to-the-E a while back (the logo is a Budweiser “B” with a lowercase e hovering over it as though it’s some kind of alcohol-based mat notation) but couldn’t work up the nerve to try it. Beer was never intended to give people energy. It was created by the mythical beer fairies to reduce people’s energy level to the point baseball seems exciting. What’s next? Amphetamine-based sleep aids?
The beer world used to be so much simpler. The major American brewers made regular beer and they made lite beer. Most Americans drank one or the other and those who wanted something with actual flavor could choose a beer from a smaller brewery or find something imported.
Advertising, too, was simpler. Find an attractive woman or a washed-up sports figure or a cute dog — or better yet, all three — and put her or him or it or them into a commercial. Make it funny and show lots of cleavage (the woman’s not the former defensive lineman’s).
Let’s see the wine industry top that.